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Toyo Eatery is in many ways the standard bearer for the new wave of Filipino cuisine that has won critical and popular acclaim. That’s thanks to Jordy Navarra, one of the most thoughtful and quietly influential chefs working in Asia, someone who has worked to help raise the profile of the nation’s food on the world stage.

His impeccable resume includes Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck in the UK and Alvin Leung’s Bo Innovation in Hong Kong, both three Michelin-starred, but his cuisine at Toyo is far more grounded in a sense of place and terroir.